What can you do on your safari?

Walking in the “Two Gorges”

Walking near the gorges The fabled Serengeti ecosystem covers far more area, and contains much more varied terrain, than is included within the confines of the National Park. Two of the region's most intriguing and little-known features are the stunningly beautiful Sanjan and Ol Karien Gorges — dramatic neighboring ravines cut by eons of wind and water sluicing through the Gol Mountains.

These Gol Mountains are old; they have stood for hundreds of millions of years and seen the Serengeti ecosystem change and evolve into the incredible wildlife area it is today.

The Ol Karien Gorge, (the place of red ochre, a soft stone used by the Maasai people to decorate their bodies) is an easy two-hour amble into an intimate ‘echo chamber’ or land of sunlight and shadow. The narrow sections are only a few feet wide and the rains create smooth rocks, wonderful to run one’s hands along. Rocks of every color and texture imaginable lie at your feet, while lovebirds, sunbirds, hornbills and doves compete with you for echo and space.

The Sanjan Gorge, (the place of lovers or sweethearts) is much larger and deserves the effort of a three to four hour hike. Better to take a picnic lunch and spend the day resting at noon in the shadows of 1000 foot rock faces that seem stacked by some ‘giant vulturine god’ into the perfect nesting sites for Griffon Vultures, who nest here in their thousands in the wet season. Only after a walk of three hours does this gorge begin to narrow. The Sanjan River flows in this gorge and feels its way around enormous house sized boulders of granite and mica that fell thousands of years ago, eventually emptying its waters into Lake Natron, 25 miles away across the grassy plains.

At the top of Sanjan Gorge At the entrance to the gorge stand two askaris (guardians) Walking in Ol Karien Gorge Evening walk, wine in hand, in sight of Ol Donyo Lengai

Then, back in camp at the end of the day — shoes off and cool drink in hand — one can watch the last light fade on the perfect cone of Ol Donyo Lengai, East Africa's only live volcano. Pictures do say a thousand words, but the experience of walking in the Sanjan and Ol Karien gorges will give you thousands of thoughts and images of your very own.

Read more about my walk in the Sanjan Gorge

 

photo credits: Paul Oliver